Semopar Forum

**BAD HABIT** · 10-26-2010, 01:15 PM

you should not mix synthetics with conventionals, period. i was told to use a blend for 2 oil changes and go full syn after, i know i could be wrong because of these being motor oils, but in hydraulics class my books say i shouldnt mix synhectics with others because of the way they are made, now i know the oils them selves cant be made much different, meaning motor oil and hydro oil....so theres my theory....ive always used mobil1 products and prolly will continue too unless i get a hook up on some amsoil....

**car_enthusiast63** · 10-26-2010, 01:22 PM

Yea i have also always used mobil 1 oil and filters, real good stuff the only thing ive heard of being better is amsoil which is what i plan on running in my classic project car when i get it running. Ive heard its some of the best oil.

**BassMaster** · 10-26-2010, 01:32 PM

I will not blend either, don't believe in doing it. This is turning into quite the educational thread.

I don't plan on going more than 6-8k between changes, I run my truck hard. And tow about once a month. It sees a lot of dirt roads. I clean my K&N when I change my oil. Oh and I found a manual, and once I get my bushings, and ball joints done I will be doing the full service. I did the spark plugs at 90k. Plan on doing everything else between 95k and 100k.

**SmokedRam** · 10-26-2010, 01:42 PM

Originally Posted by jusjay727

you should not mix synthetics with conventionals, period. i was told to use a blend for 2 oil changes and go full syn after, i know i could be wrong because of these being motor oils, but in hydraulics class my books say i shouldnt mix synhectics with others because of the way they are made, now i know the oils them selves cant be made much different, meaning motor oil and hydro oil....so theres my theory....ive always used mobil1 products and prolly will continue too unless i get a hook up on some amsoil....

no, I actually work for an oil company....you can mix them...back in the early days of synthetics you could not...you can actually go back and forth all you want and not "wean" the engine from either type.

Just felt the need to add the following: Extended drain intervals are perfectly fine, if your truck is OUT of warranty...if you still have a warranty on your vehicle, then follow your manufacturers recommended drain interval for all fluids, regardless of what type/brand of oil you use.

**car_enthusiast63** · 10-26-2010, 02:48 PM

i typically change mine every 3k or 4k even though im running full synthetic, ive been told i can let it run much longer but it gives me a better level of comfort knowing its usually running fresh oil, and speaking of spark plugs, does anyone know what performance plugs would work great on a ram 4.7L. Is anyone running those E3s ive seen so much of in sites and tv?

**SmokedRam** · 10-26-2010, 03:42 PM

Originally Posted by car_enthusiast63

i typically change mine every 3k or 4k even though im running full synthetic, ive been told i can let it run much longer but it gives me a better level of comfort knowing its usually running fresh oil, and speaking of spark plugs, does anyone know what performance plugs would work great on a ram 4.7L. Is anyone running those E3s ive seen so much of in sites and tv?

In all honesty...people think that running any synthetic will allow you to increase your drain interval. However, using synthetic oils broaden your range of protection as far as wear, temp range etc...it does not broaden your drain intervals unless the oil manufacturer has blended it to do so. You have to understand, that although the base oils are different between conventional and synthetic, the additives are nearly identical and they are what break down first.

**004x41500** · 10-26-2010, 06:57 PM

I do agree with adam on the drain intervals if you do run syn. oil, though i have seen on some BMWs a 7,500mile MFG. Recomended oil change interval, though I personally would still change mine at 3,000 regardless.

i did some extensive research on synthetic oils, and from that i was able to find out that syn. oils DO NOT contain detergents that conventionals do. and that is why your syn. oils almost always come out cleaner looking than your conv. oils. and this was actually backed by many 1st hand expeirences over on DF, by several members of the 2nd gen community, one that i know of off the top of my head is Sheriff420, he also has pics of what it looks like after (xxx,xxx)miles of syn. oil...

Heres the full disscussion about it:http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...motor-oil.html

its actually rather informative, theres lots of food info, and several links to different articles online, and a few charts, also CMCKenna has quite a bit of goood and valuable information regarding oils as well.

heres the page the quote can be found on:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...tor-oil-8.html

heres another page:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...tor-oil-7.html

Heres the direct quote:

Originally Posted by Sheriff420

Well I'm definitely going back to dino oil. I've ran synthetic since I got the truck because I assumed it was better because of the higher resistance to heat and longer life before it starts to break down, even though I change it at 3000 miles religiously.

Here's another picture of the baked on crap that was taken pretty soon after I took the timing chain off my truck with the sun on it to give you a good reference.

Heres another qutoe with more pics from Sheriff420 on DF:

Originally Posted by Sheriff420

Well that makes me re-think using the valvoline synpower full synthetic 5w30 that I've used for the last couple oil changes.
I had that crusty baked on oil all in my lifter valley and the valve train.
actually, I have pictures of it to back up what you're saying. I've run full synthetic for 54,000 miles.

The picture I have of the lifter valley has shop rags stuffed in it, but it looked like the timing chain.

**SmokedRam** · 10-26-2010, 07:04 PM

yeah, think about it this way fellas...people say why pay high $$$ for Amsoil or RP is you arent gonna run it like the oil manufacturer intended you to. Well here is the deal, every manufacturer builds specific tolerances into their engines...THEY know whats best for your engines, since they designed them.

But anyway, you can pay an extra $40-60 a year to change your oil at 3 months/3000 miles like the engine manufacturer intends you to, or pay whatever it costs for a new engine every year...

**004x41500** · 10-26-2010, 07:12 PM

ya, if there was a syn. oil out there that had detergents in it(probably wont happen anytime soon because they react in a negative way with the syn. oil) i would be more that willing to run a syn. oil. though if i had to run a syn. oil i would most likely buy amsoil., because from what ive read about royal purple, is that youre really not paying for anything more than marketing, and PR.

**SmokedRam** · 10-26-2010, 07:20 PM

I would really have to check with the amount of detergents in motor oils...cause honestly the engine manufacturers wouldn't approve them if they did not have detergents. I am going to check with our lab manager here at the plant tomorrow and ask about our brands of synthetics, cause honeslty...the only non detergents we blend are conventional straight weights...SAE 30, 40, 50...etc...but I am 99.99999% sure that all of our multi-vis engine oils, weather synthetic, synthetic blend or conventional contains more than enough detergents in the blend to meet or exceed manufacturers specs.